The harbour in Barcelona isn't perhaps the most attractive in the world, but the adjacent promenade and beach if nothing else, shows to good effect the hardiness of the natives. I felt quite chilly as we strolled along, but the beach was rather busy with Catalan sunbathers. Good for them. Near the end of this walk is the harbour with many shiny yachts and just around the corner, down a very anonymous side street is perhaps one of the finest of Barcelona's many - and I mean very many - tapas bars, El Vaso De Oro.
Our first attempt to enter was thwarted by the simple fact that it was so full that we couldn't get in. It was late lunch and the place was so rammed that all we could see was an array of backs accompanied by the very jolly buzz of people having a great time. Disappointing, but it bode well for later. We weren't going to give up that easily. A quick wander round the back streets later and one large glass of Estrella better off, we returned. It was busy but we found four seats at the bar. Game on.
This is a very narrow bar served by two doors, one at the end and one in the middle. The space between the wall and the bar is just wide enough for a row of high backed chairs and enough room for a skinny type to manoeuvre the resulting two feet or so. It can be done as we observed, but only with goodwill and a lot of wriggling from both sides. I wouldn't like to give it a go myself mind. At each end the bar widens out enough to allow a few tables, but the bar is the prized spot. The waiters are known for their hard work and good humour and their rather ragged singing and whistling, but they are certainly a cheery lot and the atmosphere as they josh with locals and visitors alike is wonderful. It was a sheer pleasure just to sit there and take it all in. At the bar there is the usual array of Spanish tapas and there is a wider menu available too with the steak and foie gras, a much sought after delicacy, both for its succulence and reasonable prices.
Apparently they used to brew their own beer here, but now the beer comes from Cerveza Fort and as far as I could tell, was all that was offered. The waiter happily described the beers to us and we ordered small glasses of porter for me and American Pale Ale for our friends. E had the pilsner which she didn't like much, but actually on reflection, it may have been the Summer Ale. The American Pale was very highly thought of, but it was me that hit pay dirt. The porter was a revelation. It was jet black, toasty and roasty with a gorgeous mouthfeel from the oats. This was a seriously good beer. My next order was for a bigger glass and a portion of Spanish Black pudding which was a perfect match. A couple more rounds ensued as we watched the waiters run up and down and people come and go, shouting banter, calling to the kitchen, serving up plates of tapas and generally enjoying their work.
It was certainly the best establishment that I had a drink in during my trip and I had to be dragged out. If in Barcelona, go there.
The reason I allowed myself to be dragged out was our appointment at Edge Brewing later that day - See previous post.
Fresh beer is the thing and that is good. Just round the corner from our hotel in Poblenou Barcelona, along a lovely tree lined street, we tumbled out of the restaurant we were eating in around 1a.m. and decided, as you do, that a nightcap was required. It was early season and most places were closing, but one bar was still going like a fair - well it had people in it and wasn't closing, so near enough. Inside we ordered beers, noting that the brewer was Mahou who are in fact the owners of San Miguel and Alhambra. Spain, like everywhere else these days has a rather concentrated brewing industry. (Despite many thinking otherwise, the Philippines end of the San Mig operation was bought out by Mahou in 1970.) The group is 100% a Spanish company.
As we sipped our beer we noted (eventually) that above us in the ceiling, were two large yellow tanks. Yes, we had Tankovna Mahou. It didn't really impress, but then again, it was most likely a drink that wasn't really needed, so unlikely too really. But it didn't taste that much different to those I drank in Gaucin last year..
We returned two nights later in similar circumstances, but glasses of vino blanco were ordered. Probably a good decision. They used to hide tank beer in the cellar in the UK. Now the are a feature. Progress? Almost certainly.
In Barcelona, new breweries are getting kind of thick on the ground, but one of the biggest and best equipped is Edge Brewing, which just happened to be on the same (very long) street as our hotel, so being well prepared we - well one of our friends - arranged a visit. Also attending were some sundry Swedes, a small number of Scots including a very young brewer from Stewart Brewing in Edinburgh and a lone Geordie.
The brewery itself is set in a very anonymous building in, the part in which the brewery is located at least, a very anonymous street. But once inside it is all somewhat different. It's industrial heritage is clear, but it has been put to sensible use with a warehouse and cold room at the front and behind, a tasting room and the brewery itself protected behind a glass wall. It is a veritable cathedral (well more a church) of stainless steel, which, at the time of our visit was being obsessively cleaned. They take great care of such things here. The brewery was immaculate and has rather a good back story, having been designed, built and shipped from the USA, together with its American owners. This is very much an American brewery, transposed to Catalonia.
Our tasting session consisted of around 20cl of six different beers (it is usually four) but in my usual feckless way, I neglected to write them down as I was enjoying talking about them to my friends and the tour guide. This is I admit a bad habit for a beer writer, but then again I was out to enjoy myself, so hey ho, sorry if my memories are a little hazy. First up was a hefe-weizen which had been "improved" in its refreshingness - is that a word? - by the addition of lime - which I personally found a little overdone, but I can see how, on a hot Barcelona day, you'd gulp one down. A saison was next but with little saison character to speak of, with an odd "Old English Spangles" taste (you need to be old to remember them). The main characteristics were mint, pear drop, aniseed and treacle. Not at all unpleasant, but I feel it needed more work to bring it into style. We all liked Hoptimista a lot better. Described as an American IPA, it ticked most of the boxes with pine resin, caramel and a good bitter finish. I could have drunk a pint of that one even at 6.6%.
We followed these up with an amber ale with oats, honey and oranges which was pretty good, American Rye Pale Ale and a Porter with vanilla. Well I think we did - not that I was drunk on 3 x 20cl - but because I didn't write it down. We also were given as a treat, an experimental beer which should stay just as that. Nobody liked it much at all. The brewery tour, which split the tasting into two, was interesting just to see how they worked. They even have one of these giant hop gun thingies that batter hops into the beer, though really you couldn't tell from the ones the ones we had. The brewery produces a large number of styles and looking though them,
there are many I'd rather have tried than the ones we did, but that's
just the luck of the draw. You get what you are given and certainly none
of the beers, the experimental one apart, were bad by any means, but
none really stood out either, though as always, it is the joy of talking to
beer people about beer that really gave me the most pleasure.
Of equal interest to me is that around 90% of Edge Brewery's production is sent overseas, mostly to Scandinavia and the USA. Yes American brewers in Spain sell a lot of their beer back to America where they mimic the styles produced there. That's an odd juxtaposition, but explained by the fact that the market for craft beer in Barcelona while growing, is tiny. It seems export is the only way to keep it all on the rails in the hope of a more widespread Spanish craft beer breakthrough and to repay the cost of the operation. Somewhat "coals to Newcastle" you might think and you'd be right.
At the end of the day this is a good brewery, with interesting beer, ambition, great kit and branding, produced by nice beery people. It was a good evening out.
It is also of note that Edge Brewing was named the top new brewer in the world, as well as top
brewer in Spain in 2014. Hoptimista, part of the Edge core line up, was also
voted a top 50 new beer in the world out of 60,000 beers. Edge also have barrel aged beer. Seems somewhat de rigeur these days.The top photo show the Hop Blaster.
Tempting though it has been, I have refrained until now from writing about CAMRA's Revitalisation Project, but having read yet another treatise on the subject, I though I might as well chip in what I think. I'm not exactly an insider, you'll find that CAMRA has quite a few layers of influence above me, but I do know how many beans make five real ale wise and to some extent CAMRA wise, so here goes.
Firstly, what has prompted this consultation exercise? Is it internal pressure to change? No, it is very largely external, but there is one vital change that has prompted this. It isn't the fanciful idea that CAMRA is frit about craft beer - though there is a perception that's the case - or that there is a membership concern about our lack of support for craft keg - there isn't - and of course many of our members supplement their drinking by having the odd craft beer or three. Crikey, even I drink lager and craft beer from time to time and apart from a small minority, I reckon most CAMRA members do. It can't really be a hatred of keg then surely? Or non real ale - I repeat our members by and large drink it. So what is behind it? My perception is that the answer, at least in part, is that we have a new Chief Executive (Tim Page) that wants to look at the Campaign with fresh eyes and ensure that under his tenure that CAMRA is doing the right thing, that it is taking its members with it and is fit for purpose. Ah these words. Some may recall that I was involved in the last review, the Fit for Purpose Review and I was pleased that Tim mentioned, when he spoke to me in Liverpool this weekend, that he had thoroughly read the Fit for Purpose Review document and its recommendations on taking up appointment and that he saw the Revitalisation Project as very much an extension of the work of that committee, of which I was a member.
Bloggers have been banging on about this for a bit, but here's a thing. By and large they don't really influence anyone but other beer bloggers and fellow travellers - aka readers. Most CAMRA members aren't blog readers. Hell, I'm sure most of my 1800 CAMRA members have never read my blog despite me banging on about it from time to time. In short, we don't really matter and the pressure exerted by most of us, no matter how well written or closely argued, can safely be ignored. CAMRA needs to set its own course and it is the members that are most important here and to whom this review is really addressed. Ultimately they will decide. It is their campaign, but that isn't to say that blogs haven't generated some interesting stuff. They have, but reading through some of the blogs on this subject, I am struck repeatedly that most people, CAMRA members or not, seem to lack any real insight into why most people within CAMRA don't just see the light and campaign for all beer. A Campaign for Good Beer if you like. The answer isn't all that complex. It is simply that on the whole, by preference, they drink and support real ale, like it better and are worried that it will disappear without CAMRA.
So as it has all been done for me, I'll quote a few bits from blogs which I think get to the heart of things:
Phil made this rather pertinent comment in his blog:
"At its core CAMRA is a single-issue campaign – and, despite how specific
it is, ‘real ale’ is the best way to give that single issue a focus.
But it’s a campaign, not a cult. What we want, if we’re members of
CAMRA, is more, widely-available, good-quality real ale. That’s probably
also going to be reflected in what we drink, given the choice – but if
we do range more widely, frankly that’s nobody’s business but ours."
Ed wrote: A common criticism of CAMRA is that it was a big mistake to focus on
dispense method rather than beer quality. On this, like so many other
things, the critics are wrong. By tying their definition of real ale to cask conditioning CAMRA
made real ale easily recognisable in any pub in which it is served: just
look for the hand pumps. This has served well as an indicator of what
to drink in a pub for decades now, and continues to do so today. No
specialist knowledge is required, and people with only the faintest
interest in beer nerdery can easily pick out the real ales.
He went on to say, tellingly: "Craft beer on the other hand is in a horrible mess already.
In Britain attempts at defining craft beer have been even less
successful, and many beer geeks have had to settle for "I know it when I
see it", which I'm sure if of great help to the average beer drinker. In a local supermarket craft beer is now another ill defined category like world lager." Boak and Bailey
Chip in with that most pernicious and incorrect of arguments: "Personally, we think the battle over cask-conditioned beer has been won —
most people who want a pint of cask ale in decent condition know where
to find one, and the situation is better than that in many parts of the
This is the old CAMRA has done its job argument. It hasn't. Real ale is not in as much danger as it was for sure, but the continuance of real ale requires eternal vigilance. Paul Spearman writing a comment onZythophile's Blogwrote a very good counter to that notion hereand as I’ve argued elsewhere, all the pressure for change within CAMRA is external. I detect little
real wish within, other than tweaking around the edges. And the
battle for real ale is never won. We are just at a fairly high point in
the war. Quality is still the key at both the brewing and dispense end
of things and we still haven't got this remotely right.
Is taken with a notion expressed on Boak and Bailey's blog:" I was also much struck by this comment by Ian H on Boak & Bailey’s blog: "CAMRA is a people-powered cultural heritage
organisation in all but name. Traditional drinking culture is what links
real ale, real cider/perry, historic pub interiors and community pubs.
Embrace it! By all means show craft more respect (the same respect shown
to Belgian beers and quality German and Czech lagers, for instance),
but don’t water down the central purpose of CAMRA.
He is right to be so taken. The link Ian outlines between the various strands of CAMRA is neatly summed up and gathered into a cohesive whole as written above. Maybe, just maybe, CAMRA isn't nearly as far off the mark in its current campaigning as some allege.
CAMRA started out as a single focus organisation, but has acquired many more bits and pieces as it went along. But it has never really lost that single focus and that's what gets on the nerves of those outside that say we should change. Most members say no such thing. It is focus that brings relevance and I am pretty sure that most CAMRA members will see it that way. The Campaign is its members and if the members want to continue that single focus that's just what we'll do. It is also worth pointing out that with nearly 180,000 members, CAMRA isn't going anywhere soon and members provide relevance by their sheer weight of numbers. Focus on what you can identify, define and defend and you will gain
followers. A woolly message doesn't do that. It is the single focus that
has made CAMRA the organisation that it is. To change it might be
suicidal. To paraphrase Mao about the French Revolution "It is too early to judge whether that single focus has worked or not!
Now of course my critics will say I have just chosen quotes to suit my
own stance. Well too true I have, because they actually make sense.
While it is certainly wise for CAMRA to review its activities from time
to time and make adjustments - and I have been involved in the making of
a few of them - but it is too glib to simply say CAMRA should campaign
for all types of good beer. What is good beer? Define it. My best
attempt will be "Beer I like" but if you include beer most people
like - and why wouldn't you? - we'll have to include the most popular
beers in the UK. Those are massed produced lagers. Unless you drink basic commodity lager, in the UK, you are a minority drinker. We shouldn't overlook that.
"All the pressure for change within CAMRA is external. I detect little
real wish within, other than tweaking around the edges. I personally
want to move CAMRA to be more concerned about the quality of real ale at
the point of dispense and to protect traditional pubs and, yes cask
conditioned beer. We shouldn't worry about the rest too much. And the
battle for real ale is never won. We are just at a fairly high point in
the war. Quality is still the key at both the brewing and dispense end
So we carry on and if we eventually disappear up our own arseholes
as we all die out, so be it. I've enjoyed the ride and so have most of
Now of course it may not all pan out this way, but I reckon I won't be far off the mark. There is a possibility that the campaign may change in a way that will cause it to implode. What won't happen I'll bet, is that we become a Campaign for Good Beer. It isn't what the members want and in a members organisation, if you don't take your members with you, then you are scuppered.
And I repeat. Most CAMRA members drink all kinds of beer, but they campaign for real ale. As always, the clue is in the name. Should a major change take place, I imagine that a much weaker campaign for real ale would emerge. So maybe CAMRA is in a bit more of a cleft stick than Tim Page realises.
Our AGM was held at the Sheffield Tap. We had a private room in the part where the in house brewery is and beer, kindly provided for us by owners Pivovar, was on tap on a help yourself basis. So we helped ourselves. The room itself is magnificent and we were told it had been closed for over 30 years when taken over and was in a filthy state. It isn't now as you can see from the picture and provided a great backdrop to a very lively discussion. A wheat beer produced in the brewery was very highly thought of, as was a Vienna style lager. I can vouch that the cask beer was top stuff too.
Once this aspect was over, it was an enthusiastic and slightly oiled bunch that set off on a coach to Thornbridge Brewery, deep in the Derbyshire countryside. The Riverside Brewery is a neat set of modern buildings which we reached after the driver and some of our chaps worked out how to get over the river which separated the road we were on from the one the brewery was on. That sorted - not without false starts - we arrived and got stuck in to a the beers provided, both in cask and on keg.
The brewery itself is a multi million pound cathedral of stainless steel. "Italian designed therefore twice as costly" as our guide joked. Well not joked, more ruefully explained. It has been extended from its first incarnation a number of times and will be extended more. The brewing kit is a mixture of types including multi purpose vessels and gives a great deal of flexibility to the brewers. We also had a tour of the lab which has every kind of device imaginable to test, calibrate and control beer, including a sort of "mini brewery" in a test tube kind of affair that can mimic fermentation outcomes in a very short time. Nothing is left to chance here and it is the minute attention to detail, that to me, sets Thornbridge above many of its rivals. That isn't to say that every beer will be to your taste, but it won't be muddy, murky and imprecise. It will be clean and there is a very, very high degree of probability that it came out exactly as intended both process and outcome wise.
For those that like aged beer, we also visited a separate building housing beer maturing in various wooden casks. All done on a very carefully controlled basis and all very neat, functional and well laid out. Back in the bar, I was particularly pleased to see one of the brewers Dominic Driscoll, an old mate from his Marble Brewery days and all round good egg and enjoyed the beery discussion with him and fellow BSF members. Probably a little more than Dom who had not of course been drinking.
Thornbridge does so many things right. They are beers to seek out for the quality of the ingredients, but also for the care and attention to detail that goes into their making. I recommend them highly.
Sadly there was no Cocoa Wonderland around at this visit, but you can't have everything.
The photo of some of the vessels at the brewery is a fraction of them and doesn't really do it justice.
The Annual General Meeting of the Foreign Beer Bars (BSF) from the Great British Beer Festival took place earlier this month in Sheffield. We meet to plan how we'll do things next time and review what we did right and what didn't go so well at the last event. Like all these things, it doesn't just happen, but is thought through as much as it can be and it all takes place through considerable human effort. I haven't told you about it as I've been ill ever since. Not through too
much beer, but caused by a viral infection from which I am slowly
recovering. Still, I am better enough to mention a couple of things
before they fade like all endearing charms tend to.
There were three of us attending from Manchester, but one didn't make it out on Friday. He was ill with a viral infection. You can see where this is leading can't you? Still, a mere 50 yards from our rented front door was, glory be, a Thornbridge pub, the Bath Hotel. Now how's that for lucking out? The pub itself was a delight and even luckier was that it had two rather unusual and excellent cask beers on. We called in with the aim of trying a couple of halves. Melba IPA (5.2%) had more peach juice flavour than most peaches do. If you like a beer that is just peachy, well this is your man. It was peachier than a peachy thing, but still refreshing and tasty, though perhaps just a little overdone. We enjoyed it but moved on to Cocoa Wonderland (6.8%). Now it isn't at all often a beer stops me dead in my tracks, but boy did this do so. It was stunning. Like a bitter chocolate ice cream with so much depth and complexity, we were rendered speechless. The brewery describes it as "a full bodied, robust porter with natural mocha malt flavours from the complex malt grist, complementing the decadent additions of real cocoa
beans to the maturation process". Well, if they say so. It was just a chocolate infused dream of a beer. Those that reckon that cask conditioning can't handle this strength of beer needed to be there. No carbonic bite, just a tight creamy head, a melting chocolate malt body and all that wonderful flavour. Truly magnificent. The best beer I've had this year by a considerable margin. We had to stay for more and indeed returned for more later.
I'll tell you about other aspects of Sheffield in another post, including our trip to Thornbridge Brewery itself and a bit about where the meeting took place, but I must first mention another fantastic pub. The Red Deer, an unspoilt traditional pub just off West Street. Not only is it a lovely multi roomed boozer, but it has the kind of easy going atmosphere and mixed crowd that makes you want to stay for more than one. So we did of course. We sought the barman's advice on some of the local brews and he knew his stuff and couldn't have been more helpful. We settled on Stancill Stainless after being reassured by said barman. Described as "Unfined, vegan and naturally hazy." our antennae were finely tuned into trying to discern something decent amid the murk. Instead we were presented by a perfectly clear, beautifully balanced best bitter, lush with malt and with a big Cascade hop hit. Poise, balance and elegance. Class in a glass in fact.
So, three things if not learned, reinforced. Cask conditioning can be just the dab for rather strong beers if the brewery and cellarman know their stuff. Unfined beer does not have to look like chicken soup if the brewer and cellarman know their stuff and good pubs and good beer, when mixed correctly in the right proportions, attract the right crowd and are a winning combination.
Simple stuff really, but highly recommended for great beer and great pubs.
Note the Gilmour's Brewery window in the Red Deer photo. I understand too that the Bath Hotel has its interior listed as being of national importance. I can see why.
I won't mention the very unwise kebab, or how messily it was eaten either.
Somewhat perversely I suppose, I left London before the main piss up of Craft Beer Rising started on Friday of London Beer Week. I had arranged to go to London long before I had even thought about that and I couldn't stay on as I had an important CAMRA meeting on the Saturday. A pity as I think I'd have enjoyed it. Next time, I'll try and be there. Such is the business of my better half, that I like to come when she has
a little less to do, then I get the pleasure of taking her out for an
overpriced pint, but this time she had a little free time and I had access to a little free beer. Hooray.
Many readers will know that the vast Truman's Brewery in Brick Lane was more or less abandoned when the brewery closed in 1989. It is now home to many arty type projects and a hub of London Beer Week. Two pop up brewery led bars were of interest and I had an invitation, as a guest, to one. Sharps had a neat little pop up bar, open to the public, with a fair number of their lesser spotted ales on cask as well as, of course, Doom Bar. It was good to try Cornish Coaster, Atlantic, Wolf Rock and Special. All were pretty good actually, though hardly enhanced by being served in flimsy plastic glasses. The fun bit was an invitation to Sharp's Secret Bar, where spoonfuls of various foods were matched to Sharp's Connoisseurs range and boy did it work. This range of beers is excellent and I have to say that the Vintage Blend, described by the brewery as "Five
beers of diverse styles and vintages – a Trappist Dubbel, a sweet
barley wine, a Quadrupel fermented with yeast, a soured honey wheat beer
and a US dry-hopped double IPA – aged for one month and blended with a
base beer for truly unique results" was as stunning a beer as I've had in a long time. The experience was great fun and while I won't divulge details in case anyone gets a chance of going, if the opportunity ever arises, jump at it. We all trooped out with immense grins on our faces and you can't say fairer than that. It was interesting too to talk to Sharp's (surprisingly young) brewer Andrew Madden who was a really good sort. All in all it was a great afternoon out and you learn, if you hadn't already, that big brewers can brew bloody good beer.
Just around the corner was the Guinness PopUp. This was clearly aiming to promote their new lager Hop House 13. All the founts bar one were for this beer and much memorabilia and clothing was on sale. Along with my pack from London Beer week, I had a voucher for a free half, so I tried it. Not bad really, rather thin bodied and weedily bitter, it was certainly a little more tasty than many, but not likely to be my go to lager. Ever. Of much more interest was that they were selling one off beers from the Open Gate Brewery. I won't go into this Guinness experiment here, rather, I suggest you turn to the Beer Nut who wrote about it all in his blog in early December. Talking to the delightful guys behind the bar, they were sent a different beer three or four times and the current offering was Milk Stout. Now surprisingly to me at least, this 6.4% beer was served on plain old CO2, not nitrogen like Draught Guinness and it displayed all the negative qualities I associate with that kind of serve for ales and stouts, most notable of which was a fierce carbonic bite and the fact that the head lasted seconds. This rendered the beer into sugar water. Not great and annoyingly sold at £3 a half while the lager was £3 a pint. Bonus was the great staff and welcome, a free bag of the best pork scratchings I've had in along time and the fact that all the beer was served in proper glasses.
Last up in this little trio of reports was another invitation, this time by Goose Island. This was a closed event and we were offered three different bottled beers to go on with, Honkers, an English style Pale Ale, Goose Island IPA and a lighter wheat beer, 312. Now is that Goose Island IPA dumbed down? This was the talk and even though I have supped it at source, I couldn't say for sure, but the consensus, which I probably go along with, is that it has lost something in up-scaling it. Nonetheless all the beers were very enjoyable in the context. There was plenty nice seafoody stuff too and a chance to scoff rather a lot of Dungarvan Oysters which certainly wasn't a hardship. Slightly citric, salty sweet and a real treat, they were good to wash down with a swig of 312. Later on we were invited into a holy of holies where the Goose Island Innovation Brewer, Tim Faith, talked us through tastings of Goose Island Bourbon County in its "ordinary" and aged incarnations. All in all a good night too, though I preferred the straight Bourbon County by far. It was great too to hook up with the Beer Father, Justin Mason and @tabamatu Andy. Great company for a good night out at any time.
E and I also went to the Pilsner Urquell pop up which was more or less next door to the Guinness one. Rather dingy inside, Tankovna PU wasn't enhanced one bit by plastic glasses though E liked an old favourite of hers, Kozel, also served from a tank, but with the same reservations on plastic. Can't remember the prices though sadly.
Last Wednesday after attending the final Oldham Beer Festival Planning meeting in Oldham, I hot footed it to Rochdale to meet my chums as usual. Well I say hot footed - more cold footed really - as the inepts from First Manchester Buses skipped a bus on the half hourly 409 route, leaving me and many others in Ice Station Zebra for a further 40 minutes. (Oldham is at least two overcoats colder than most places.) Sorry for the digression, but a rant about these buggers always makes me feel better. See tweets passim for more such.
Our usual haunt, the Regal Moon is still being renovated after the floods, so our new temporary home is the Good Beer Guide listed Flying Horse nearby. It is rather a good pub, with nice staff and immaculate beer. No hardship to drink there at all and I joined my pals while nodding to other Regal Moon outcasts. We aren't the only ones in that boat. The company was excellent and once I thawed out I really enjoyed myself. It was jolly with banter, laughter and conversation and the beers, all of them, were at the peak of cask conditioning. It was a really good night and even the unheated 17 home didn't dampen my cheerful mood that much.
So, I had a fun night on the beer in the pub, what's the big deal? Well there isn't one, but I make this point. I do remember looking at the pumpclips of the six or more beers on offer, all from breweries I hadn't heard of and choosing my beers based on the colour samples that were in font of each handpump in little jars, or, the pumpclip description. I couldn't remember the names or breweries of any of the beers on the way home and reflected that I'd had four pints from three different breweries and just enjoyed them for what they were and the occasion for the company. The beer was kind of incidental.
Sometimes, and maybe the best times, is when beer is an accompaniment to fun rather than being the fun itself.
Boundary Park, Oldham FC's ground is often called Ice Station Zebra, but I think it applies to the town equally. It's a bloody cold place.
I discovered a photo on my phone from the night. So I might have been drinking Spike's Gold, but then again, maybe not. And yes, it was topped up.
I remember in the early days of my residence in this wonderful area of Greater Manchester, being invited to the re-opening of the Three Arrows in Pilsworth near Heywood, which is part of my CAMRA branch area. Quite a countrified part of this world really and I recall, as I was going to have a drink and therefore not driving, leaving the car at home and hoofing along country roads to Heywood in my suit. I also remember being ticked off in this Lees pub for wearing my Higsons Brewery tie. Well, it was over 25 years ago, standards of behaviour and decency were much more rigidly enforced and they were, by and large, much more innocent times.
Alas no longer. The current tenant of the Three Arrows is being dogged, by, well, doggers. Seems like this quiet and reasonably isolated neck of the woods is an ideal spot for it. Now unlike my dear friend Tyson of this parish, I'm unfamiliar with such terms, so turned to the Urban Dictionary for enlightenment. It speaks thusly: "This is where people meet up in car parks and watch each other having
sex. Sometimes other people join in, but it's mainly about watching and
getting off on it!" Well I never. I doubt if such things ever happened in Dumbarton in my youth and certainly I didn't come across anything like it in Liverpool when I was there - and trust me anything went in Scousley - but hey, things change and seemingly it is a widespread thing. Doesn't sound that much like fun to me, but who am I to judge?
Unfortunately what one might regard as a harmless enough, if somewhat unusual and eccentric pastime, has a darker side. The discarding of unwanted associated items. This is what is getting on the nerves of the landlady of the pub. Seems your dogger likes to chuck away "Condoms, underwear and baby wipes". Not so nice at all for the landlady having to clean such things up. Seems too your dogger, probably as you might expect, is somewhat brazen in their activities, being undeterred by CCTV or, indeed, daylight. This kind of brass necked conduct has narked the landlady further, but thinking on, it does kind of go with the territory, but nonetheless I agree that she really does have a point that must be addressed.
So this is a plea to my dogging readers. It isn't smart and and it isn't clever. Pack it in.
If you want to read the full gory details have a look at the Manchester Evening News. There are some less than helpful suggestions and poor jokes on Facebook here.
Heywood is also known as Monkey Town. You can read all about it in the Knowhere Guide.
I mentioned in my last post that the area of London around Aldgate has changed beyond recognition. Bearing this in mind, I decided to make use of the changes and instead of approaching the Brick Lane area via my usual route of Whitechapel Rd, I went along Commercial St for a change, thus giving me a chance to walk on the posher parallel. A mere 15 minute stroll from our flat I came across Culpepper. From outside it looked pretty attractive, though the name itself set off alarm bells. This wasn't going to be a basic boozer, even though, with Truman's boards on the façade, it obviously was at some time, having lived most of its existence as the Princess Alice and after that as the City Darts - a name that just makes you want to say "Why?" A bit like its latest name in fact. It has, like many a place in this area, Jack the Ripper connections. That lad got about a bit.
Anyway enough of pub naming, I'm more into pub shaming, so around noon, in I went. Now I have no idea what it looked like before, but I rather liked the way it has been done up; stripped walls, large windows with wrought iron surrounds and a nice wooden floor give it a very pubby feel, even though, clearly, the emphasis is on food. You can read what Jay Rayner thought about it here*, but I was there for the beer. Good it was too, but pricey. You'd expect that, but at least they'd remembered to spend some money on cellar cooling and, more importantly, switched the bloody stuff on. The young barman was happy to chat as I was the only one there, but his boss - I sussed that out - gave me not as much as a glance, so you may have to take your chances in being greeted kindly. I had two beers; Hackney American Pale and having spotted it, Harveys Sussex Bitter, because it is the law that this cannot be passed by. I enjoyed the latter more than the former, but the Hackney was fine. In fact a touch better than that and if I hadn't been the sole customer the whole time I was there, it might have been even finer. I understand though the pub/restaurant/hotel isn't this quiet normally, being filled and overfilled by hipsters and suits. Now I know though, I can enjoy a pint there when it isn't rammed. So in short, I liked it.
I also liked the Golden Heart on the corner of Commercial St and Hanbury St, as a pub that has been preserved in its 1960s glory. It really is a smasher inside, with much dark wood, nice old prints, Trumans memorabilia, sparklingly clean (I didn't use the toilets though) and with a legendary, characterful landlady (Didn't know that at the time). So putting aside the gougy prices (£2.80 half of Trumans) - what's not to like? Again I was the only customer, so was served by the legend who gave an immediate impression of the individuality that earns her the descriptor of brusque and obtuse in one review. I put it down at the time as her being deaf and eccentric, so enjoyed the décor, put her out of my mind, supped up, thanked her and left.
I didn't witness her other behaviours, described as "rude, awful, unreasonable, acidic, belligerent" and more, though I suppose I did witness "Daylight Robber". I have a feeling the other less than complimentary attributes weren't hidden that far below the surface. I like "character", but you can have too much of a good thing it seems. Enter at your own discretion.
*Jay Rayner advises that Culpepper was a herbalist of some repute. They grow herbs in the roof garden apparently. Jay isn't impressed.
You really want to read some of the astonishing reviews of the Golden Heart. You might even want to go there afterwards. I might even go back myself, but probably safer not to.
The area around Aldgate East and Leman Street in London has changed beyond all recognition since we acquired our flat there around 18 years ago. It is so well connected that it has become very fashionable and after many years of little change, in recent years new flats are springing up like crocuses in spring. It shows no signs of abating. In that time pubs have come and gone, mostly, gone, taken over and demolished or turned into flats. If only some of them had stuck it out, as now the population is huge and growing and amenities are open all the time. Back in those distant days the area was as quiet as a mouse on a Sunday. No longer.
One new pub has opened this month. The Leman St Tavern directly on Leman St itself. Very unlovely from the outside, it is owned by Geronimo Inns, the Youngs offshoot and is the kind of classy affair that will attract the many suits that are kind of thick on the ground around these parts. All wood, metal and glass, with delightful old railway prints on the wall, it is comfortable and the welcome is pretty genuine. The menu looked good too. It was also great to see the handpumps are obvious and facing you as you walk in, not hidden round a corner, as is often the case. The beer was in pretty reasonable shape, with my Truman's Blindside being cool and reasonably conditioned. It
wasn't however golden or hoppy as stated. Why do brewers have such a
problem identifying colour? Light brown is not golden! Price wise a
whopping £4.50 a pint. As an aside, the £4 cask beer is probably the
norm in London now and the £5 barrier is likely to be broken soon I fear
Riding out all this newness has been the Dog and Truck which I wrote about here. We scurried round for a soothing pint of Harveys. Shockingly it was closed. The builders are in and the inside, with all its 1970s gloriousness has been torn apart. It is to be one of Enterprise Inns new managed houses, under the Bermondsey Pub Company (based in the West Midlands oddly) banner. This was devastating. Now I know that refurbishment is long overdue and that likely we'll get something with decent beer, but another charming piece of the past has gone and we mourned it over slightly too warm pints in the Dispensary.
I'm willing to bet we'll pay something well north of £4 a pint too for the privilege.
I'll mention some prices in my next blog. Well one in particular, for which I am still getting therapy. It also involves Truman's Beer which somehow I think, just doesn't suit me.
Two things to tell you about. Firstly I'm invited to the formal launch of a new brewery in my CAMRA Branch area and even better, the brewery is run by two of my active members. How good is that? The official launch of Serious Brewing, run by Ken and Jenny Lynch, is in a couple of weeks but tomorrow night, despite the brewery initially concentrating on bottles, there will be a cask of their stout on in the Flying Horse and I'll be there to run my palate over it and give my verdict. I'm really looking forward to it and to sampling some of the Belgian influenced beers they'll subsequently produce. Their first core
beer, Goldrush, a 5.6% golden pale
ale is based on Trappist and Abbey beers and two other core beers are planned, a farmhouse saison and a Belgian
stout as well as seasonal beers throughout the year. I'm not sure if the stout is Belgian influenced, but only one way to find out. It all sounds quite exciting doesn't it?
Exciting in a different way is the news that my area will be getting its first micropub. The Old Post Office hopes to open next week in nearby (to me) Castleton. Cazzy (or is it Cazzie?) is between Middleton and Rochdaleand not far from my two local pubs, the THT and the Ship.
Regretfully in terms of attending any opening night next week, I can't, as I'll be in London for London Beer Week events, but I'll be going this week to interview the new owners for our CAMRA Magazine, More Beer, so I'll hopefully learn all about them and their plans. I'll let you all know.
Whatever else you can say about the beer scene in Greater Manchester, it is in constant flux and showing great confidence and resilience. I'm really excited about both.
Part of that flux will see Outstanding Brewery move to Salford from Bury. A little bird tells me that business rates had a big hand in that. Win some, lose some.
Twitter: @seriousBrewCo; @TOPOAleHouse
Photo shows (top) Jenny and Ken Lynch and Bottom, the Old Post Office mob. I couldn't make my mind up where to place the photos, so I've just plonked them in.
Now I have known to bang on about poor cask beer in London and sometimes I get told off for it. Can you believe that? Well I'm usually right on that subject, but it isn't just that the beer is badly kept in London, but that some of it, honestly, isn't that good. It is only fair then, to fess up when I come across good London micro brewed cask beer. Step up to the plate please Five Points Brewery of Hackney, London.
In the excellent Blackjack Taphouse - or is it the Smithfield Market Tavern? - I had my first pint of Five Points Pale. What a great beer. Trust me on this one. It has an easy drinking elegance, is bitter and hoppy without going over the top and above all keeps the body that you need to hold beer together. Served at the peak of cask conditioning and through a tight sparkler, it was so good I had to have two more. The true test of a good beer is surely that one pint isn't enough? Now I haven't, to my best recollection, come across this beer in London, but I will look out for it. I just hope I don't find it warm, flat and wishy washy. I reckon too that it illustrates a point I have often made before, that the best new wave breweries do cask as well as keg and bottle. When you get your cask beer spot on, you really are a brewer. There is no place to hide when you produce real ale. Well done on that front and shame on those that produced great cask and then gave it up.
I should point out too that I recall Matt Curtis mentioning the brewery, so I looked up the article. It was his cask beer of 2015. Well done that man. I can see where he is coming from.
Tonight, having shaken off my lurgy, more or less, I'm going to try some of the new version of a beer I brewed and had a big hand in the recipe, Rammy Craft's Chocolate Chilli Stout. The chilli has been upped. Hooray!
Mudgie is always banging on about children in pubs. In fact he admits it to being "a bit of a hobby horse". Frankly I don't tend to come across them too much in the pubs I go to, though we do often get quite a few on a Sunday afternoon in the Tavern, but thankfully most are very well behaved. We get far more trouble from dogs. My other haunts tend to be relatively child free, though the Rose of Lancaster, where I am often to be found of a Friday tea-time, usually has quite a few eating with parents. It is though so well run, with high standards and a manager that is always there and having a word if needed, that I am not bothered by them one bit. That's as it should be. Well behaved children enjoying themselves are a delight.
Not so on Saturday night. In a pub near me which won't be named, I entered around seven in the evening with my lass. Firstly, in a heaving pub, we could see that almost every table was inundated with uncollected glasses and empty plates. Food was till being served and we did find a seat after moving glasses to a nearby table. Children were running about shrieking and chasing each other, using the steps as a jumping playground and getting under the feet of the customers, and dangerously, staff bearing plates of hot food. They were unchecked by their parents. This is the kind of thing that really annoys. To me, together with the uncleared tables and the absence of a manager taking control, this is a sign that the pub is being run badly. Children aren't the issue really, as children will be children, but the failure of parents to apply discipline was magnified by the failure of pub management to apply standards. We supped up quickly and left and won't be back at a time when children are there. It was just a bit of a nightmare.
On a different tack, last night at our CAMRA Branch meeting in the Baum, I had a beer from a brewery in Kent whose beer I know quite well, as it is often available in London. Having had it in less than optimal conditions in London, I nonetheless think it as a pretty good beer and was looking forward to trying it under the assurance of the highest possible standards, in this former National Pub of the Year. This example wasn't. It was distinctly phenolic. Now here's the thing. Discussing it with some of my fellows, only one out of four of five that tried it identified the distinct (to me) TCP overtones. I recalled Mark Dredge writing about this and stating "this is another off-flavour which some people are more susceptible to tasting than others". Too true and a reminder that we all perceive flavour differently. How many times have you thought a beer dreadful while someone else loves it - or, indeed, vice versa?
So two issues. One easy to tackle and one less so. The joys of the pub.
Now someone is going to say "Why didn't you complain?" Well, I have complained about this pub before to the owners and clearly nothing has changed. maybe the potential revenue loss might be an issue. I'll just vote with my feet.
Well, it is over now and I'm just about recovered. All the planning and hard work was worth it. We had 14,800 through the door, we sold 45,000 pints or thereabouts of real ale and all the cider, almost all of the foreign beer and most of the keykeg. In short, it went bloody well.
I spent the last hour and a half or so of the last session asking customers at random what they thought of it and most importantly if they'd come back again if we do it next year. The answer without fail was a resounding "Yes".
So what went well from my point of view and what didn't?
Venue: Was superb and easy to work. All on one level, everything dropped where we needed, all well planned and going from a vast empty hall to one filled with bars, stalls and thousands of people and then back to a vast empty hall again was oh so satisfying. And people loved it. Everyone I asked was thrilled with the room, the seating, the ease of getting there and everything about it. Even when at its busiest, it was navigable. The hall staff were ever helpful to us and they loved it and want us back.
Door Arrangements: I was in overall charge of this area and it operated pretty smoothly. We opened on time, we closed on time, we got people in quickly and queuing outside was kept to a minimum. Nobody was turned away. The staff there quickly formed a very cohesive little team and worked well together despite it being the coldest area to work in. Well done them.
The Customers: An absolute delight. From the trade people who cheerfully accepted things when we had a problem with cash (see below) to the old CAMRA codgers to the younger crowd on Friday and the cheerfully mixed one on Saturday, all were pleasant, happy and when we needed them to be, patient. We had no security incidents to record. As always it was great to talk to so many beery people (did you know you can just about say "Beer people are good people" without having to stick your fingers down your throat?) and a special mention must be given to all my fellow bloggers who were a delight and not too pissed. In fact no-one was too pissed. Nobody threw up in the toilets and there were no first aid incidents in the hall. With my H&S hat on, yippee.
Toilets: Some improvement needed, but by and large they were kept clean, waiting time was usually short and despite a touch of insurrection over toilet gender reallocation, fairly laid back about (short) waits. On my trip round asking customer views, nobody complained about them, though I personally felt we needed more.
Beer: We got so many compliments about both prices and quality. There may have been the odd duff beer but fortunately none came my way. On my rounds so many people thought it was great value for money. The KeyKeg bar with real ale (fully compliant with CAMRA's definition of real ale if you were doubting this) was well received. The roof didn't fall in and we move on. The Foreign Beer Bar had some great stuff too and I for one really enjoyed the brewery bars which seemed to be a roaring success. Brewers, assuming we do this again, my top tip is to get in early, offer your most interesting brews and don't shilly shally if you want a spot. There will be overwhelming demand next time.
Tasting Sessions and Great Manchester Beer Debate: The tasting sessions, new to us were very well received. With a top team of presenters, well chosen beers and a crowd that made them so interactive, they were a delight, though surprisingly hard to organise, but (my area again) I learned a lot.
We've learned a lot from the beer debate. I was on the panel, along with Hardknott Dave Bailey, Mark Welsby and Jeremy Stull from Beermoth. I think we should have invited questions to the panel as we drifted a little into cask v keg and audience speeches, but hey, it's the first time and we'll likely do it again. Thanks to Connor Murphy who kept it all going.
Volunteers: Fantastic. Endlessly willing and cheerful. Perhaps most impressive was that the Manchester Central Event Manager thought them as good as any professionals at setting up and taking down - and he's seen a few. They served willingly as always and it was great to see a lot of new faces and many younger ones. A special mention as always to the stewards. they don't have a drink at all during the festival open times and they are the unsung heroes of this event.
Went not so well:
Not a lot really. There was mixed reports on the food and if anyone has anything helpful to say on that, fire away. This was provided by the venue. Let me know in the comments box, what you'd actually like to see next year. We were let down too by our bank and our security company over cash and had to hurriedly construct a token system in about fifteen minutes flat. It worked and cash was a problem to us throughout, as when you start with less than you need, you are always playing catch up. My own apologies to those that got their glass refunds in twenty pence pieces! There will be a million other things too internally and we do try and improve each year. There have been helpful suggestions in other blogs and we will look at them. We aren't stuck in the mud in Manchester and we'll try and do even better next year. If there is one.
We have to go away now and ask our usual round of "How was it for you?" to all our staff and Heads of Departments. We'll have to crunch the numbers and balance the books. Most of all we'll need to see who is up for it again and get a price we can live with. Here's hoping. Photo one is me with John Keeling of Fullers. John's a Manchester lad and was at the festival with two of his pals from way back. That's classy. Photo two is my pal Erlangernick with the inimitable Roger Protz. We could have a caption competition here as to what Roger is saying. "Who the fuck's this is already taken."
Perhaps living in Manchester (well nearly) I should be aware of Hydes Brewery's seasonal range under the "Provenance Brewing from Hydes" banner, but sadly I wasn't. That was corrected last night, in emphatic manner, in our temporary Wednesday night HQ, the Flying Horse in Rochdale. I arrived just after nine to a fairly busy pub, still adorned with its full Christmas decorations, lights gleaming cheerily and incongruously. On the way I had passed and noted the merrily twinkling Official Borough Christmas tree, shining out in the pissing rain. Enquiries revealed that this delay is to include and celebrate Ukrainian Orthodox Epiphany, which apparently is a big thing in Rochdale and will delay official end of shenanigans until the 19th of January. I may of course be having my plonker pulled, but there you go - that's what I was told. Don't say I never tell you anything useful.
Recommended to me by the landlord, Hokkaido is a pale, hoppy, citric little number, containing that most difficult of hops Sorachi Ace. In my experience Sorachi Ace is a hop that you love or hate and it displays itself to me as either revolting - or bloody brilliant when it is done right. Variously described as "having intense lemony flavors, Sorachi Ace also runs the gamut
from white flowers, dust, and tea, to bubble gum, dill, and coriander.
This hop is ideal for IPAs, saisons and wheat beers." As it happens, Hydes had used it for a pretty straightforward hoppy golden ale and boy did it work. I always feel that Hyde's beers can be relied on for their wonderful full body and so it proved here. Nothing wishy washy at all, but a backbone of malt that stood up to the hops particularly well. Lemony, slightly herbal (coriander) and very moreish, most of us switched to it. I stuck with it until chucking out time. It was a great decision and also, to the delight of some, on offer - I know not why - at a mere £2 a pint.
On this performance, Hydes is well overlooked. I must correct that with more frequent visits to Manchester.
The full Hydes range for 2016 is here. Worth a look I say. The Regal Moon, our usual haunt, is still closed after the flooding. I'll keep you informed of progress in due course.
The title of this post is a nod to the Beer Nut and one of an occasional series.
We'll be having a discussion on beer at Manchester Beer and Cider Festival on Saturday 23rd January. OK, there will be lots of discussions about beer at the festival, but this will be a pukka organised one, with someone helping the discussion along and keeping some kind of order, some geezers sitting at a top table talking bollocks about the amber nectar and there will even be seats - 100 of them - to stop the drunks falling over before they can get round to asking questions.
The Great Manchester Beer Debate will take place in the foyer at Manchester Central. You will have to pay to get in, but there's no cost to come along and ask our distinguished panel that burning question. We'll have Dave Bailey of Hardknott, who will also be singing and dancing to warm us up, Jeremy Stull from Beermoth, Mark Welsby from Runaway Brewery and creeping in quietly and trying desperately to keep up, will be your hero, Tandleman. We will likely also have one other local on the team and holding the jackets will be Connor Murphy who will tread a fine line between control and hysteria as the ale fuelled debate ebbs and flows.
That sounds OK doesn't it? Do come along and make it three pints in lively. 2.30 p.m.
Don't forget the beer tastings either. Roger Protz, Christine Cryne and John Clarke. What's not to like? This is not your ordinary CAMRA shindig.
Today I'm off to Atherton ( no I'm not sure where it is either) for the CAMRA Regional Meeting, but more importantly in my eyes, for the final organising meeting for the Manchester Beer and Cider Festival (MBCF).
This is going to be massive Folks. It will be held in Manchester Central - formerly G-Mex - a huge former railway terminus and now an exhibition centre with the latest facilities. There will be hundreds of real ales, many dozens of traditional ciders and of course, our now famous Foreign Beer Bar, which will feature rare delights both in bottle and on tap and for the first time, we think, at a major CAMRA festival, a dedicated Keykeg Bar where we will feature beers from cutting edge brewers, but all conditioned by natural CO2 and not force carbonated. They meet the CAMRA definition of real ale, so what's not to like? Come and see what you think.
We'll have tutored beer tastings from Roger Protz, Christine Cryne and our very own John Clarke (tickets still available, link below), impromptu "Meet the Brewer" sessions, a free debate on the future of beer in our vibrant city of Manchester with some leading local and national personalities and much, much more. Transport there is a piece of cake, there will be thousands of seats, it is all on one level and it is as cheap as chips. No craft bar prices here.
This won't be boring, so be there. I'll be telling you more about it in detail next week.
Tickets for the festival can be ordered here and tickets for the beer tastings here. You can pay on the door too of course.
I am grateful to the lads at Pubs of Manchester for providing a link to a number of long gone pubs in the Oldham area on Twitter and one or maybe two that are still going. The Never Ending Pub Crawl is written contemporaneously, but in this case refers to a crawl of Oldham which took place in February 1987. The aim was to try some Oldham Brewery pubs before they were "Boddingtonised", Oldham Brewery having been taken over by Boddies in 1982 and closed five years later in 1987.
Now this strikes a chord with me, as I too remember doing a similar thing with E reluctantly driving, but regrettably, I didn't photograph them and frankly, with one or two exceptions, I can't remember which they were, or when exactly I went to them but it must have been around that time, though maybe a bit after, as I worked in nearby Failsworth when I moved from Liverpool and there were certainly plenty of OB houses in the old livery dotted around then.
Now as I knew no-one in the area at that time, I used to go out with a few of the people I worked with for a pint and one place I can distinctly remember is featured in the pub crawl above. It was the Rose of Lancaster, a fine old red brick, multi roomed boozer which I fondly remember as being warm and comfortable, but of course, given the passage of time, may have been a draughty old dump. No matter, that's not the point I want to make. What I do remember is that when we went there, there was always plenty of young Asian lads openly and happily drinking beer there. Such a thing, I imagine, is pretty well unthinkable now.
Times change and the Rose has long since been knocked down, but my memories of what was a large and somewhat multi cultured drinking establishment remain fond ones.
As you can see from the photo, nicked with acknowledgement from the website above, the pub wasn't quite red brick, but those are my memories and it was always dark when I went there.
The photos are great in the Never Ending Pub Crawl, but why in the old days did we always take photos from so far away? The ones I took then are exactly the same.
In the recent floods, one of my regular haunts, the Regal Moon in Rochdale was severely flooded. The photo shows just how bad it was outside and now, I have seen the photos of the inside, courtesy of the manager who is one of my CAMRA members and indeed, a mate of mine.
When water gets into a building it naturally finds the lowest level it can. In this case, in a very large former cinema, built in 1938, it went into the cellars underneath the bar as well as wrecking the bar itself. The kitchen was ruined too and of course all food written off as well as all open stock and stock touched by the filthy water, which as well as mud, contained sewage. All pretty grim. The scene is one of devastation.
So what happens next? Well a number of things. Structural engineers will have to see if permanent damage has been done, the company has to decide how it will be refurbished assuming it is safe and of course the insurers will be involved as reinstatement is the usual requirement of insurers, not wholesale change. In addition the local authority will have to ensure that all its needs are met and that items from the interior which were listed are re-instated if required. It will all take time. Best guess is an Easter reopening, worst case scenario is the summer. All this has been hugely upsetting for the staff who are all a very close team. It has been likened to a bereavement. JDW have been great though and ensured that everyone has been given a temporary job elsewhere, but of course, not in Rochdale. My Wednesday nights are disrupted as is that of its many regulars. I suppose the only bonus is that other pubs will get a welcome boost, probably the nearby Sam Smith's pub for it's cheap beer. We'll be going to the Flying Horse tonight. The Sam's pub is keg only.
It may be that there would have been no cask either anyway. I understand that with the flooding of Sam Smith's yard in Tadcaster, thousands of wooden casks have been contaminated and need a deep clean. Cask may be off for some time.
Those of us that are a bit more long in the tooth than most, have fond and maybe rose tinted views of the beers of the past. We remember clearly when someone would say "Let's go for a pint in the Dog and Duck" and the first response would be "Whose ale is it?" We may not have been that knowledgeable about hop varieties or styles - indeed, broadly, there were only two styles, mild or bitter. Our minds were completely untroubled by IBUs or indeed IPAs and if terms such as "craft", "barrel aged" or "sour" were presented to us they would have been as incomprehensible then as would have been the internet or computers. But whose beer was on sale was important to us. We did have one relatively geeky word though - "traditional" for that is what we called real ale then - or cask as it is so often now described. It was trad beer that we sought. We knew it to be better. And we knew what we liked. A darts match in a Whitbread House would have us beating an early and agreed retreat to a more conducive venue - a place with better ale, where we didn't have to dilute keg Trophy with a bottle of Forest Brown to make it drinkable. It would quite often be a Higsons' house.
Matt Curtis , in a very good piece has written, yesterday I think, about the second wave of brewing, where sleeker, better equipped operations such as Mondo Brewing and Cloudwater with state of the art German built breweries and brewers who actually have training, are likely to make a big impression on the brewing scene. Some seem to look down on this, but Matt makes the very valid point that while lots of brewers can produce decent enough beers, what we need is consistency. As Matt puts it, "Dependability goes hand in hand with sustainability." While I may not agree entirely that brewers such as Magic Rock and Beavertown are on their way to becoming regionals, there is evidence that great plant and good brewing technique can grow a business. Not a million miles from me, Moorhouses is a perfect example and in deepest Staffordshire, Joules is another. Though their plants are nearly as shiny and modern and capable, their business model is a million miles from the urban keg forward models Matt is used to, but this merely underlines Matt's point. The second wave of breweries is growing and diversifying, even if they are in some cases, producing not Alts or Double IPAs, but cask conditioned bitters and golden ales. Matt's point still remains perfectly valid and if you want a decent growth strategy, there is certainly merit in going bigger from the start. Therein too lies your exit strategy should you want one - and everyone should.
This brings me neatly back to Higsons. I read with interest in the Liverpool Echo that a new Higsons Brewery company has applied for planning permission to build a new brewery "The planning documents say the primary business would be the “production
and sale of craft beer (including draught beer, bottle beer and
spirits)” but the facility would also include a bar/cafe and “an upper
floor beer hall where visitors can also enjoy a selection of ‘grazing’
food”. Significantly, the plan includes "a state of the art, highly engineered, German-manufactured beer
production plant which will occupy the majority of the available ground
floor". This sounds ambitious but this business model does have legs as outlined above. I do hope
though that they can bring back Higsons Bitter in a recognisable (cask conditioned) recipe. And, of course, do other things too. Mixed cask and keg is good.
Liverpool is a very sentimental place and the name Higsons still resonates. It needs a beer it can call its own. Fingers crossed, Higsons can be synonymous with Liverpool once more. Bringing back dead beers can be a good thing. Joules is an example of existing success and Roger Protz has been tasting Charrington IPA at Burton. You need to have a receptive audience though.
It still astonishes me that many "beer drinkers" have never gone into a pub and asked for "A pint of bitter please.".
Anyone else seen the bus shelter adverts for Cancer Research UK? I mean the one where they suggest you give up the demon drink (my words) and have "one less sin" (their words). One or two things occur to me about this. I didn't know drinking was a sin. Is it one of the ten commandments? Did Moses come down from the mountain saying "Thou shalt not have a few beers". No he bloody well didn't. Perhaps Cancer Research are using a more liberal definition of sin, as in the Urban Dictionary's "Good, dirty fun". The serious point is that calling drinking a sin is just another attempt to denormalise drinking. There's other things I dislike about it too, but just have a look at it here and make up your own mind.
I had kind of thought that given that the lies that prop up the anti alcohol campaigners have been exposed as such time and again, that they might let up a bit. Not a chance. In fact the Nanny State's latest judgement that a pint and a half a day (except when you have to abstain for two days) is your lot will be promulgated any day now. A pint and a half a day would equate to seven and a half pints a week. Tops. Oh Dear. Forget that leisurely Sunday session with your mates, because you can't save it up and have it at once. If you are fond of the stronger craft beers, well maybe two thirds at the most? That'll be a fun session. If it wasn't for the risk to jobs and revenue putting a bit of a brake on all this, you wonder how much worse this all might become?
One thing is for sure. Cynicism is the correct approach in this area. They are coming for us and they are making inroads. Mudgie was right all along.
For an alternative view, Tryjanuary, see the Morning Advertiser here. I can't find the bus shelter advert on line but Cookie has one here on his twitter feed.
Sorry this isn't as well written as I'd like, but after a few goes at it, this as good as I'm likely to get it.
You can't but fail to know that Manchester is one of the best cities for pubs and drinking in the UK. It gets a fair old lot of praise from many writers who tend to just dip in, have a few beers in a renowned watering hole and then bugger off back to where they came from, singing its praises and returning the their main and desired theme of how good London is beer wise, even though it isn't as good as is alleged really. Up here we know how good Manchester is beer wise, but of course that can vary a little too.
New openings though do keep everyone on their toes - or at least should if the incumbents have any sense - and we've had one or two. I rather like the Smithfield Market Tavern in its new Blackjack Brewery Tap get up, though it was of course a very famous but down- at-heel pub back in the day, but got exceedingly tattier (it was always tatty) as the years rolled on. At least I could always be assured of a late drink there as I was one of those - rather a large number it must be said - who could knock on the side door and be admitted. It was taken over not that long ago and money spent on it, but it wasn't a great success, mainly as standards were poor and the beer was usually shite or off. Now it is clean, popular and booming in the hands of people who know what they are doing and who have turned a failure into what seems to be a roaring success.
Other notables are the much awaited Cafe Beermoth in Spring Gardens, described by my good friend Tyson here which I visited during the Christmas period. It was trading well and was enjoyable as much for the varied and pleasant clientèle, as for the excellent range of beers, sensible pricing, great service and the general feel of the place. It needs to settle in, and I would have liked to see more cask and less keg, but I liked it nonetheless and it will likely be a sure place to visit when I'm in town. Also praised and described by Tyson (and by Stonch no less) is a place that is certainly is at the other end of the spectrum. Albert's Schloss is an astonishing and expensive conversion of a grand old building on Peter St, just a few doors down from the gloomy BrewDog. This is a breathtakingly cheeky pastiche of a German Beer Hall, complete with a mostly German menu, an in house bakery, German beers and the biggest draw of all, to this
writer, Tankovna Pilsner Urquell. It is big - on a grand scale in fact - brash, cheerful, expensive and attracting a mixed crowd. It will be interesting to see how well this will trade in future, but I fancy it will do well enough.
So what's all this got to do with the title of this blog post? Well, in comparison to these new places, into each life a little rain must fall. I have heard tales that some of the more "established" places - and these aren't that old - have dropped their guard more than somewhat and are losing their lustre by changing what worked before and not for the better. Three at least have had their fair share of complaints about them and I know many who are now giving them a miss. Name names I hear you say. Well not on this occasion, but you can take a good guess I'm sure if you know Manchester.
The point though is this. In the pub game and in a place like Manchester with so much competition, you have to keep at the top of your game. As always, "It's the offer Stupid."
I'm looking forward to trying the German food at Albert's Schloss. In house bakery sounds good too. Have to say the Urquell was lovely, but at a fiver a go, it should be.
As I neared the end of my walk to the pub yesterday I was on my last quarter mile when an approaching car going downhill away from the pub stopped. It was some of our regulars who had just bailed. "It's rammed in there - you'll have trouble getting in the door." I laughed, exchanged New Year's greetings and trudged on. Boy was he right. I literally fought my way in through a throng of strangers, push chairs and children. Crikey! Dotted round the edges of the bar were a few regulars, but otherwise I didn't know a soul. I elbowed my way to the bar and got served. Not much waiting for us bread and butter types and that's how it should be on days such as this.
Our pub is unusual in many ways. Firstly it is fairly remote, set amidst four farms in the middle of a country park and a mile from either Royton or Middleton, up unmade farm lanes which are used mainly for the milk wagon, farmers getting to and from fields by tractor, livestock and by walkers. The pub itself is small, old and has just two rooms. The landlord can only make it pay by working the shifts himself entirely. It is really a "hobby pub" where the way of life is part of the deal. Now of course walkers are part of the passing trade and are very welcome, but this was of a different magnitude. If only some of these once a year drinkers would come a little more often, life would be better for all. We need some more regulars.
I squeezed in at the bar as the pub got busier. I'd only been there a few minutes and watched as orders for soft drinks, teas and coffees, slowed down the serious business of getting a pint or two of beer. One lady asked the landlord if he remembered her from last New Year's Day. He replied that he didn't as he whizzed up and up and down. She ordered two coffees. Regulars helped by clearing tables and fetching empty glasses back to the bar as the crowd was three or four deep. More locals arrived and found a corner here or there. At ten to three the bell was rung in earnest for the first time I can recall in years. All waiting were served, the bell was rung again and that was that. The strangers supped up and left. Not us regulars though, nor those who fancied more than one. The bar opened again shortly after three fifteen for a couple of hours and we carried on supping in a much more civilised manner. Anyone who passed was admitted, locals or not. The doors weren't closed, but the pub was much more convivial and the landlord got a much needed breather. He'd worked hard and deserved one.
The Lees Bitter and Plum Pudding were excellent and when the pub closed, we bailed to the Ship for half an hour while waiting for a taxi.
It was strangely reminiscent of the old days when pubs stopped serving at three all the time. I quite liked it, but then again I knew I'd be getting another drink. I did too then in my Liverpool local come to think of it. What goes round, come round and being a regular has some advantages!
A bit of a CV. Tandleman is a veteran beer lover, local CAMRA Chairman and activist, beer writer, beer reviewer and pursuer of all things good in beer. He lives in the North West of England and London. Despite his CAMRA membership, he does not limit himself to cask conditioned beer, though he believes that cask conditioning, when done correctly and appropriately, brings a quality to beer that is hard to equal by any other kind of presentation. He is a strong supporter of Northern methods of beer dispense and avidly detests poorly presented beer and dislikes pasteurisation. He regularly visits Germany, has conducted corporate British and German beer tastings for CAMRA at the Great British Beer Festival where he has worked for years on Biere Sans Frontieres and was Deputy Organiser at CAMRA's very successful National Winter Ales Festival in 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012. He admires good brewers wherever they are and has travelled extensively in pursuit of good beer to drink.
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